The Nautilus

Tucked away in a typical Portuguese street in historic Alfama, this apartment is a peaceful retreat in the heart of Lisbon’s most arresting neighbourhood. Weave through alleyways, past bedsheets fluttering on washing lines and magenta sprays of bougainvillea, to traditional tascas and cosy restaurants where fado singers keep an audience captivated. Make your way uphill to São Jorge castle with a pit stop at Miradouro de Santa Luzia viewpoint – it’ll take you no more than fifteen minutes. Inside the apartment, a light-filled living space with high ceilings calls for sitting back and relaxing with a pastel de nata or two and a glass of Portugal’s famous green wine. For quiet moments with your holiday read, head down the spiral staircase to the second sitting room. The exposed stone and ambient lighting make it feel extra cosy in the evenings.

Home truths:
*There's no air conditioning, though fans are provided
*The streets outside are filled with fado bars and restaurants, so it gets pretty busy
*One of the showers is only 190cm high
*We found a few damp marks on the ceiling in the bathroom, but these are being sorted out
*Two people can sleep on a double sofa bed, but the mattress isn't the best